Showing posts with label tapestry tour of France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tapestry tour of France. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 9, 2023

Impact of the Tapestry Tour of France part 2

Today I'm picking up where I left off last month, talking about my takeaways from the two-week tour of tapestry in France that I was fortunate to take in June.  I ended that post with this thought:

For me, the most moving work retains an essential mystery at its core, a stillness.  I experienced this when looking at the Lady and the Unicorn, the Apocalypse, and the Song of the World.  

 

Mon Seul Desir, detail, from The Lady and the Unicorn cycle of tapestries at the Museum of the Middle Ages, (formerly the Cluny) in Paris. (Sorry--photo distorted due to unavoidable camera angle.)
 
The Lady and the Unicorn is famously mysterious (kind of like Mona Lisa's smile).  No one agrees on what exactly the unicorn symbolizes.  The meaning of the sixth and final tapestry in the series, Mon Seul Désir (My Sole Desire) is especially up for debate.  Is the lady placing jewels into the jewelry box or taking them out to wear them?  Why?  Each of the other five tapestries in the set focuses on one of the five senses (sight, hearing and so on)--does this sixth one refer to a sixth, more spiritual sense?  If she is putting away her jewels, is she renouncing sensory and worldly delights?  The lady, her lady-in-waiting, the lion, the unicorn, and the rest of the menagerie--they're not saying.  There are many theories about the meaning of the tapestries, and it may be that there are multiple, complementary interpretations that are all valid.

Taste, detail from The Lady and the Unicorn at the Museum of the Middle Ages (formerly the Cluny), in Paris

Ultimately it didn't matter to me what the story was.  The lady and her servant stand still, frozen in mid-graceful gesture, enacting a mystery known only to them. The animals seem to know their roles as supporting cast:  the lion and unicorn raise the heraldic flags, framing and focusing always on the lady and her servant in the center; the smaller animals cavort amid the flowers.  I was enchanted by the gorgeous detail of the millefleurs, the animals and their textured fur, the richly decorated fabrics on the ladies, the still-vibrant color.  Stepping into the small-ish dim room where the six large tapestries encircle you is a magical and transporting experience to another world.  And isn't that one of the reasons we look at art?

 Touch, detail from the Lady and the Unicorn at the Museum of the Middle Ages (formerly the Cluny), in Paris.

The narrative behind the mammoth and hugely important Apocalypse tapestry is better known.  This series of weavings, over 100 meters long now but even longer when it was woven in the 14th century (much has been lost), is based on the Revelation of John, the last book in the Christian bible, also known as the Apocalypse (the Greek word literally means "revelation" though it has come to be synonymous with the end of the world).  It is a mystical vision full of symbol, allegory and human and fantastical creatures engaged in the ultimate battle of good versus evil.  

I spent some time at the beginning dutifully consulting my guide, trying to follow the whole epic story,  but after awhile I surrendered to just enjoying the details and appreciating the phenomenal weaverly skill involved.  These weavers were not reproducing brushstrokes and paint colors from a cartoon; they were weaving the images as they saw fit, exploiting the hatching, hachure, slits and other tools in the weaver's toolbox to create bold woven imagery.  

I was particularly interested in a panel depicting a shipwreck.  Look at the faces on the poor drowning sailors, each one an individual.  Look at the waves--remember these tapestries were woven from the side, so the warp as we see it is running horizontally.  Those stripe-y and spiral-y waves were woven as steep verticals. 

Apocalypse, detail, at Angers Chateau

Apocalypse, detail, at Anger Chateau

Notice the hatching on the ground above the waves in the upper right. 
 

Apocalypse, detail, at Angers Chateau

In one way, the Apocalypse theme and imagery seem more timely to us than ever.  There is so much larger-than-life action here, so much death and destruction on a planetary scale.  We are horrified but we can't look away.  The theology may be arcane and mysterious but the vision draws us in nonetheless.  The making and the survival of this massive cycle of tapestries--which were completed in just ten years--is one of the wonders of the world.  It stuns you into silent amazement.  

I was similarly awed by Jean Lurçat's twentieth-century Apocalypse, called the Song of the World, which was inspired directly by the medieval one.  Lurçat conceived of a cycle that would address humanity's position on the nuclear brink after World War II, depicting both the near-end of life as we know it and the rebirth of life, hope, joy and art.  I felt the emotional arc of these tapestries even more keenly than either the Unicorn or the Apocalypse tapestries.  

In this panel near the beginning, a human figure guides an ark full of ghostly animals who have been contaminated by radioactive fallout.  They are fleeing the nuclear explosion to the left, not seen in this detail.  

Jean Lurçat, detail, The Great Threat from Song of the World

Jean Lurçat, detail, The Mass Grave, from Song of the World




Jean Lurçat, detail from Man in Glory at Peace, from Song of the World

Jean Lurçat, detail from Man in Glory at Peace, from Song of the World

 After several panels depicting horror and despair, Man in Glory at Peace depicts life returning to the earth.  The owl, symbol of wisdom, perches on the man's head, and humans are once again integrated into nature.  The dove of peace is atop the circle of earth, bursting with new life.  Colorful stars are everywhere.  I felt a palpable sense of joy and relief when I encountered Champagne, bubbling over with flowers, butterflies and generally the joy of regenerated life.

Jean Lurçat, detail, Champagne, from Song of the World

Elsewhere in the Song of the World, Lurçat depicts the exploration of space that was happening in the 1960s, when these tapestries were being woven (by workshops in Aubusson, not by Lurçat himself).  He clearly had a post-war faith in human technology and in the potential of humans to save themselves from destruction.  Sixty-some years later, that faith is harder to hold on to. 

For me the privilege of seeing these masterworks of tapestry up close and appreciating their vision and careful craftsmanship is cheering and life-affirming. We wonder sometimes why we bother working in such a time-consuming and misunderstood (or ignored) art form as tapestry.  But we can remember that it sometimes it does survive, and it does speak across the decades and maybe even the centuries to viewers like us who long for evidence that we can do great things, one pick at a time. 



Wednesday, July 12, 2023

In Short: It was Mind-Blowing

 I returned from a tour of tapestry in France two weeks ago and I'm still processing what I saw and learned.  I expect to be doing that for a long time to come.  Under the expert guidance and unfailing good humor of our leader Cresside Collette, we journeyed from Paris to Angers, Albi and Soreze, and Aubusson, with a few side trips thrown in.  We saw what my Art History 101 professor would have called the "key monuments" of tapestry:  The Lady and the Unicorn, the Apocalypse, and Jean Lurçat's  The Song of the World.  We also saw lots of contemporary work and got behind-the-scenes looks at some of the auxiliary businesses that support the tapestry industry:  mills, dyers, conservators and independent weavers.  It was full-on immersion in tapestry with a wonderful group of textile fans.  I am deeply grateful that the tour did occur, after being postponed three times since 2020.

During the tour, I posted daily on Instagram and Facebook some of my photos and thoughts, so I will not recount all that information here.  The question I keep hearing from fellow weavers--and the question I asked Rebecca Mezoff when she returned from the same tour in 2019--is "how do you think this will impact your own work as a weaver?" (By the way, Rebecca's blogposts on the trip are very complete and well worth a read.)

As you might expect, my answer is complicated and still evolving.  Here are some of my thoughts so far:  

Size matters.  The historic tapestries and many others we saw that were produced by large workshops are huuuuuge.  The viewer is engulfed in them.  You have to stand far back to take them in, and then move in close to appreciate the fine technical detail.  They are spectacular, awe-inspiring, overwhelming.  I came home energized to work larger again--even if as a tiny one-person practice I can't make something wall-sized.  See below Who pays, etc. for more on this. 

 

Partial installation view of the Apocalypse in Angers.  The full tapestry is over 100 meters long. 


Tapestry commissioned by and hanging in the Cité:  La Famille dans la Joyeuse Verdure (The Family in the Joyous Verdure). 3 meters high by 5 meters wide. 

Technique matters. . . but for me is not enough.  I was in awe at the perfect weaving technique I saw everywhere, the attention to a uniform woven surface, perfect selvedges, gorgeous color blending, beautifully executed hatching and so on.  I returned newly determined to continue to improve my own technique and not to shy away from difficult bits of weaving if it's important to the concept of the piece.  

 

detail, the Family in the Joyous Verdure
 

That said, I saw pieces whose technique was impressive but the subject did not seem to me to justify the huge size and the expense of time and effort.  Why did Tolkein's small watercolors need to be translated into a series of large tapestries?  

 

Conversation with Smaug, Original watercolor by JRR Tolkein, 1937.  3.2 meters by 2.48 meters.  Cartoonists Anne Boissau and Delphine Mangeret.  Woven by Patricia Bergeron, Elisa Gastaud-Lipreau, Aiko Konomi and Natalie Mouveroux of Atelier A2, 2022 
 

Why do the images of Hiyao Murasaki need to find giant life in woven wool, when they already wow audiences in movie theaters? 

The Moving Castle at Sunset, based on still from film Howl's Moving Castle of Studio Ghibli-NDDMT.    5 meters by 5 meters. 2022-23.
 

The Cité states that the purpose of these monumental series of work is to reach a worldwide audience for Aubusson tapestry, to pull in with popular narratives the younger viewers who might not otherwise go to see a tapestry.  Fair enough.  Tapestry has always been about depicting epic narratives, and the Miyasaki tapestries have found wide acclaim in Japan.

Who pays for the weaving?  Who designs the tapestry?  Who weaves?  For whom?  These questions may sound crass, but they are at the heart of how tapestry has always been done in France and how much of it is done today.  Huge blockbuster works have always been underwritten by those with power, status and deep pockets.  They are designed to impress, and in some cases intimidate, viewers.  The designs are created by artists who are not weavers, though they may (one hopes) be deeply informed about both the potential and the limits of translating designs conceived in other media into tapestry.  These designs are woven by weavers who expertise is critical to make the best judgments about color and technique to interpret the design.  

This is a very different tapestry ecosystem than most of us individual designer-weavers are familiar with.  We weave on spec, usually, often mostly for our own pleasure, perhaps hoping to find an audience and  a buyer if we are lucky and work hard at it.  We determine constraints of size, timeline, purpose and audience based on our own circumstances.  For most of us, this means we are not weaving tapestries that are both huge and insanely detailed.  

The most extreme version of the workshop system is found at the Gobelins state manufactory of tapestry in Paris (which I thought of privately as the CIA of tapestry, so focused were they on secrecy).  Since the time of Louis XIV, since the time of Louis XIV, workers there--and also at the Beauvais state workshop--have made tapestries for France.  Today, they may take up to ten years to complete a single tapestry that will go into a national storehouse of works available to decorate French buildings and embassies.  Weavers at the Gobelins and at Beauvais may never know where a tapestry that they worked on for years actually ends up. That said, they are on the federal payroll. . . to weave!

 

Composition after Roberto Matta.  2.72 meters by 4.70 meters.  Wool and silk, 2016.  Woven and displayed at the Gobelins.

Weaving is a powerful creative language.   I am re-committed to exploring weaving as my primary medium, even as I explore other techniques.   As impressed as I am by the power of traditional pictorial tapestry, I am also confirmed in my own recent direction toward mixed media and shaped or 3D work.  I admire so much the expert weaving I saw--there is something undeniably magical in rendering a recognizable scene in tapestry--but that work no longer feels like it is mine to do.  The modern and contemporary weavers I saw who are experimenting with the potential of tapestry were tremendously exciting to me.  

For me, the most moving work retains an essential mystery at its core, a stillness.  I experienced this when looking at the Lady and the Unicorn, the Apocalypse, and the Song of the World.  I will say more about this in the next post.  Here's one 20th century example to whet your appetite:

Zohar. Thomas Gleb, designer. Woven by Atelier de Saint-Cyr/Pierre Daquin, Saint-Cyr-en Arthies.  Cotton and wool. 1970. 

detail, Zohar